Charlestown People and Places

Ciaran Nagle and Tara Novak at Foundation Kitchen

By Tracy Iannelli

What do a classical violinist, the founder of “The Three Irish Tenors” and Sullivan Square have in common? The answer is Foundation Kitchen. It is a hybrid of a food hall and shared commercial kitchen space; all designed for high caliber culinary professionals and anyone who likes to eat. After years of rushing through Sullivan Square as quickly as traffic would allow, I was eager to explore the location at 32 Cambridge Street with the founders Ciaran Nagle and his wife Tara Novak.  I discovered that food, music, and tenacity were the recipe for success at Foundation Kitchen.

Ciaran, whose singing voice will transport anyone to Ireland, was born in South County Dublin, the middle child of three. His parents were business owners. Dad was the salesman and Mom the financial expert. The Nagle house was full of music, from jazz to classical, with family plays at the holidays. Ciaran discovered his singing voice at age seven. He was challenged and mentored by a Catholic priest who recognized Ciaran’s exceptional musical gift. He turned professional in later years as the lead singer for Riverdance and founder of “The Three Irish Tenors.” Although always a performer, Ciaran added event production to his repertoire, providing the basis for the shared culinary workspace business.

 Across the pond in Omaha Nebraska, Tara Novak was born into a musical family as the middle child of five girls. She learned the violin when she was barely four years old. Her parents, both talented musicians, taught their daughters musical theory as if it were a game. After studying under the tutelage of Benny Kim, a celebrated Korean American violinist, Tara attended Berklee School of Music in Boston. She is a composer, violinist, and songwriter—with business acumen acquired during her hiatus in the catering and fine dining field.

As if in a romantic comedy, the two musicians met on tour. In 2012, after working in Ireland, New York, and Boston, they married in Boston City Hall. Their eclectic backgrounds—music, mediation, fine dining, sales, catering, and finance—were recognized by a business consultant and friend. He convinced the couple that they were uniquely qualified to operate a shared kitchen concept in Somerville.

Ciaran simplified the existing business model, patterning it after a recording studio; a place he and Tara knew very well. State of the art commercial kitchens can be rented by the hour with all the equipment and infrastructure of ownership. However, the existing three Somerville businesses were small and logistically challenging. Ciaran began to look for a larger location where fully-equipped kitchens, exceptional cafés and a neighborhood bar would co-exist under one roof. They wanted to be in Charlestown, and believed Sullivan Square was the perfect place to realize their vision.

 Charlestown is centrally located and its own neighborhood community. Chefs and aspiring restauranteurs from Everett, Revere, Somerville, Medford, Malden and more, find Charlestown accessible, charming, and supportive. This nexus of surrounding towns—Sullivan Square– is becoming a magnet for creativity and food innovation. The couple knew they found the right spot when their building inspector shared the heritage of colorful characters and Charlestown’s increasingly young, family demographics.

The Graphic Lofts building was the right size—over 6,000 square feet—and a blank slate. In February of 2020, the buildout of Foundation Kitchen began from the dirt basement up. Unfortunately, covid’s timing was the same. Financial setbacks, supply chain disruptions, and staff shortages tested the couple. Ciaran’s self-described “brutal stubbornness, tenacity, commitment, and adaptability” got them through it. Eventually the very pandemic that slowed their opening became a boon to the food delivery aspect of the burgeoning concept.

Today there are 39 purveyors in the state-of-the-art commercial space and the cafes. My tour of the downstairs kitchens found the chefs hard at work. Alex and Joey Law of Hygge, a Hong Kong street food concept, were chopping garlic and steaming noodles as they prepared for their first major event. John Canuto, of Canuto’s Pizza, kneaded dough in a gigantic mixer. Recently, he prepared pizzas at a celebrity’s west coast party. Charlestown’s own Taylor Kearns was a hobbyist coffee roaster for years and now operates small batch Charlestown Coffee. Martha Falvey, of Spoon Soup Co., was a chef at premier restaurants in Boston. Now she crafts seasonal soups and bone broth for delivery and to sell at farmer’s markets. Martha has been at Foundation Kitchen since the beginning and laughingly describes herself as the “OG” and originator. Other shared kitchen companies like Mini Donut Divas, Tex Mex Eats, and The Bone Sauce, exemplify the selection offered for delivery or catering.  One Foundation alumni made a pitch on Shark Tank, and Weco Hospitality meal delivery was acquired by Feast and Fettle.  It’s no surprise, there is a wait list for the commercial kitchens.

Upstairs, the 2,000 square foot Food Hall and Bar currently opens at 4:00 p.m. The cafés cater to anyone who is too busy to cook, craves high quality food, and rejects the trappings of fine dining.   Following the enticing smells, I found Youji Iwakura and Oscar Lange preparing eel at Washoku Renaissance, and looking forward to a sake dinner.  Youji describes his restaurant as a welcoming and intimate experience, where he introduces guests to his traditional Japanese cuisine. A few feet away there’s Pasta Tana, which prepares fresh homemade Italian food.  Chef Yuri Gama joined Foundation Kitchen in October with 13 years of food experience under his belt. Yuri recognized that hospital employees and other late-night workers had limited access to good local fare. In response, Pasta Tana remains open until 4:00 a.m. Dennis Lee of Pixlcat Coffee opens his cafe in July, serving breakfast and lunch daily from 7 a.m. His reputation for creative coffee blends began in his San Francisco locations. Canuto’s Pizza joins the food hall this summer.  The food collection is sophisticated and accessible.

 Ciaran and Tara operate the bar, aptly named Foundation Libation. It’s a true local watering hole with 10 cozy seats. Knowledgeable experts pour a curated selection of wine, sake, and beer. Twice a month on Thursdays, there is live music from Charlestown singer-songwriter Sam Antone.  When time permits, Tara and Ciaran enjoy performing.

At one time, the words “entrepreneur,” “startup,” and “incubator” were associated with Cambridge, or newer neighborhoods like the Seaport. Foundation Kitchen, with its mission and vitality, brings that spirit to Sullivan Square. Each fledgling business represents a dream, a passion-fueled food menu, a personal journey, and a leap of faith. The place has a modern, industrial vibe, and does not take itself too seriously.

So, the next time you are gridlocked in the harrowing roundabout that is Sullivan Square, take a detour to 32 Cambridge Street.  Yes, there is parking.  Whether your dream is to own your own café–or you just want to eat like you do–this is your place.  Order a glass of Italian pinot noir or another handpicked beverage from Ciaran the Irish tenor and say hello to Tara and the chefs. Then make Foundation Kitchen YOUR kitchen by leaving with the tastiest takeout food.

As the famous Irish poet William Butler Yeats wrote: “There are no strangers here; only friends that you haven’t yet met.”